Rick Owens

Rick Owens started his label in Los Angeles in 1994 and moved to Paris in 2003, where he still shows. Grey, black and dust, cut long and draped heavy, with boots built like architecture: the pointed Kiss, the Bozo tractor sole.

FW23, Luxor, was shown in Paris in January 2023, the models on steel catwalks through fog. Reduced architectural shapes, a hint of 70s mysticism, black almost throughout.