Gucci by Tom Ford

Tom Ford joined Gucci in 1990, when the house was close to collapse, and became creative director in 1994. Autumn/Winter 1995 set the tone: velvet hipsters, satin shirts open to the sternum, mohair coats, everything cut close to the body.

He left in 2004. Accessories from those ten years carry the same discipline, a buckle doing the one decorative job he allowed.