Dolce & Gabbana

Domenico Dolce, from Sicily, and Stefano Gabbana, from Milan, showed their first collection in Milan in 1985. The house grew out of Sicily: black lace, corsetry, rosaries, the widows and the film heroines of postwar Italy.

D&G, the younger line, ran from 1994 to 2011 and took the jokes further, down to Hawaiian postcards embroidered onto beaten denim. The main line went the other way in FW03: techno, military webbing, bondage straps buckled across grey jeans.