Chloé

Gaby Aghion founded Chloé in Paris in 1952, to make ready-to-wear while Paris still dressed in couture. She hired designers before they were famous. Karl Lagerfeld drew the line through most of the 1960s and 70s; Stella McCartney and then Phoebe Philo set its tone at the turn of the century.

The language is soft: tailoring that moves, leather that slouches, hardware worn like jewellery. The Elsie carries it in its flower turn-lock.